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Big Sale Has Started - UPDATED 07-31-25 (01 Apr 2025)
As some of you know my dad passed away 2 months ago today, on May 31, 2025. I posted it in the Members Only section when it happened. Thanks to all of you who have offered kind words on the forum, with phone calls, and visits in person during this time.
The Big Sale is on but not like originally planned, it is a by appointment type of thing now. I don't have the manpower, or the desire to do a big event like originally planned, I just need to sell a lot of parts that are taking up too much space here. I have been told and believe we are overloaded with Wheel Horse parts like no one has ever seen. Peeps have already been coming in from different parts of the country and buying a lot of stuff due to seeing the sale page, and seeing we are the only Wheel Horse only business in the USA that does things on the scale we do. The sale will continue for awhile until I free up some more space but you may not want to wait too long as things are being sold every day and there are limits to how many of certain parts will be sold.
As it says on the page it is still under construction and the page isn't finished yet. I've had a ton of calls for parts and the Big Sale Page may help answer some questions about what is here before peeps call. I hope that page is also clear that we DO NOT SHIP anything... This is a by appointment type of thing now. Be sure to call before you come to make sure the day isn't already full with peeps scheduled to come in, and make sure what you want is still available.
The Dreaded Kohler Knock-Rattle
- M Bailey
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The factory method requires removing the engine and oil pan and measuring the side clearance with a feeler gauge, which is not necessary if you have a dial indicator as shown below.. With the PTO engaged zero the dial indicator, then disengage the PTO and pull the PTO clutch outboard and check the dial to see how much lateral play the crank has. Repeat this procedure after re-shimming to verify the end play.
In this case I removed .035" of paper shims to get the clearance back to specs. Be sure to measure the shims with a micrometer and subtract the correct amount to achieve the desired end play. White shims are anywhere from .010 to .015, black shims are .030 but use a micrometer to be sure!
You can see that this engine has been torn down before because of the dinged up crankshaft end, probably for rings/piston/rod replacement.
Hope this helps someone out there fretting about their knocking Kohler. Oh! The bottom line is, this one doesn't knock any more!!
Major
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- GT 14
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1978 C-101
1983 C-225
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- Geno
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- M Bailey
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Major
"I refuse to join any club that would have me as a member." Groucho Marx
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- nappypappy
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520-H
You can lead a horse to water but you can't make him drink.
I can't see the forest for the trees.
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- Geno
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- nappypappy
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Yeah it does have plenty of power and guess I will check plug and stuff................:smile2Geno wrote: The engine on yours sounds great Nappy. If something doesn't seem right it will be outside the engine like a plug, plug wire, carb, etc.
520-H
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- FewMoreMiles
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- M Bailey
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FewMoreMiles wrote: Interesting and informative post, Major...thanks for taking the time to share the details and photos. Curious...the "knocking" is simply the PTO traveling on the crank essentially? I have never experienced this sort of thing, but would be curious as to what is actually happening. Does it actually sound similar to a low end motor concern...maybe like a rod knock? Thanks!
Jeff, what causes the knock, which is sharp and hollow sounding, is excessive side play in the crankshaft causing it to move from side to side on the main bearings. When the PTO is engaged it forces the crankshaft to seat on the left side main bearing, eliminating or greatly reducing the knock.
Major
"I refuse to join any club that would have me as a member." Groucho Marx
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