Harbor Freight Band Saw Mods

Doing some mods for Kevin on his saw and thought others may like to do the same so I'm putting them in here. 

First thing was a new longer gauge setup.  The original was metric, a little under 1/2".  A longer piece of 1/2" was used and turned down a little on the lathe to fit the original hole, that way both could be used.  A larger hole was punched in a piece of 3/16 steel, then a 1/2 split collar was welded only on half of it so it could still pinch.  Easy mod and better than the original plastic one. 

 

Next up was some new wheels to make it easier to move around.  This a bolt on setup that bolts to the floor mounts so it can be easily removed,  The angle iron on the bottom helps make the legs stronger and gives a place for another storage shelf on the bottom. 

 

A few more pics and setting it up on the machine.  Don't take anything for granted by measuring, this one started off with the rear legs having to be moved out 1" to match the front.

A little paint and some wheels and it was ready to bolt on.   The bottom of the original legs have to be notched if you want the biggest shelf possible, you can see it in the second to last pic. 



 

After all that it's time for a shelf to hold what's being cut to make things easier.  This is proving to be a challenge as the casting for the machine is not straight, and there is more of an angle coming up at the rear than there is at the front.  This setup will bolt to the same place as the holders for the spring adjustment handle. 

I think the pics are pretty self explanatory of how this one is getting done. 

 

Had to make some spacers to make up for the casting problems...  

 

All wrapped up and on the machine.  I used a couple of specialty automotive graded bolts with heavy washers made on them and long threads, and included another nut on the inside to lock them and make sure everything stays put.  The only things welded (other than spacers to make it fit right) are the 2 bolts in the angle iron that mount the top plate.  The angle iron can be removed separately in case those bolts get damaged and need to be replaced.  The plate sits below the machined deck a little so it never affects the cut.  To put it on you just put the punched hole over the bolt then swivel it over to the notched hole and tighten the wingnuts.  Taking it off is the reverse to make more space in the garage when not in use, easy as can be.  It's a lot longer than need be but it also serves as a good place to keep some tools on it while you work.

It's turned out to be a lot more stable, easily movable, and usable machine than when new, along with some more storage space.  

 

Just some before + after shots.

 

Next much needed mod... 

I was in the mood to make something else so I started on the last mod for this last night.  Kevin and I have been talking about this for a long time.  The saw just didn't have enough adjustment to put any real down pressure on the blade.  The original eye bolt was way too short, and with the fine threads it took way too much time to adjust it.

This isn't a hard thing to do but it does take some time.  I'll put it in steps and in multiple posts so it's easy to follow. 

#1 - Cut the adjustment tube back 1/2" to get rid of the original threaded piece, and get to the hollow part of the tube.
#2 - Take a 3/8-16 flare nut (without any teeth on the backside), cut the nut and flare down until it fits in the pipe leaving some of the flare to help make a nice finished edge when it's welded.  I used the lathe but it can be done other ways from grinding to using an actual insert.
#3 - Fit the insert into the pipe leaving a space like in the pics, and if possible put a 6" or so fully threaded long carriage bolt on the pipe before welding the insert.  This will help make sure that even if it's not perfect the final eye bolt going in won't bind on the pipe.
#4 - Weld the insert to the pipe.
#5 - Clean up the weld.  I used the lathe again but a grinder will also do.

Hint - A 3/8-16 nut was used because it's the biggest thing that will fit in the tube well, and with 16 threads per inch it will also adjust the fastest.
Hint - A flare nut was used to stay away from the end while welding so there would be a nice smooth end to make the adjustment smooth.

 

Next up the rear bracket for the new 3/8" adjustment eye bolt will have to be enlarged.

#6 - Remove the rear bracket and drill out the eye bolt hole to 1/2".
#7 - The rear of the spring will no longer be hooking directly into the cast iron arm, this will make for faster removal and better alignment when finished.  I used a 3/8-16 x 1-3/4 fully threaded bolt for all of the pieces that will hold the spring.  The bolt will mount from the rear to the arm with a lock washer, jam nut, 2 large 3/8 washers with a spacer between them, and a nylock on the end.
#8 - assemble the new rear spring setup.
#9 - Use a 3/8-16 x 6" eye bolt for the new setup and put it all together.

Hint - 3/8-16 x 1-3/4 fully threaded bolts are usually not an on the shelf item.  I get them from Fastenal and keep them in stock for some Wheel Horse applications.
Hint - Large OD 3/8" washers are not usually an on the shelf item either, but I stock them because they come in handy a lot.
Hint - The spacer used here is used on the Wheel Horse deck arms (3/8 ID x 9/32" wide).  It is used to prevent damage to the bolt and to keep the threads from potentially cutting into the spring over time.  The spacer is up to you but make sure the spring has plenty of play and doesn't bind up.